Dear Tamarque,
I shall try to answer without confusing who says what too much:-)
day—at least not now.
I would suggest that you modify the PHOS protocol, alternating Phos and meals, to get him back on track eating readily. I would use only diluted food for a day or two.
The vet says no ketosis, but the fact he had such difficulty eating means he either had a mild version or was troo close to it for comfort. Thus to make sure he can not slip back into it - which is erasy to do in diabetes - I'd play safe and use an alternating Phos and dilute animal protien food, with *frequent* feedings.
Stomachs do not shrink, the ketones just build up in the blood, and nausea is in proportion.
The Phos helps dissipate it.
Do please send them my way to (furryboots at pobox dot com)
A sign of stress. A pinch of lite salt mixed well into the watery food should help both the potassium and sodium adn chloride needed. The water is to make it easier to digest, as well as to ensure hydration. A 50/50 ratio works best..
A homeopathic remedy then is needed to strengthen his overall cell membrane structure to resist the parasite.
Toxo is no joke and can get into the brain and cause unpredictable personality misfires (including violence) and seizures. Toxo is a common problem in outdoor cats as it can be carried by any mammal. His feces will also likely be infective to you or other mammals. DO not let pregnant individuals near any litter trays y ou may have. Toxo causes birth defects. It is infective AFTER two days in the litter, so clean it DAILY to play safe, and also clean off any "clingons" daily.....
There are any other causes of blood in urine too, including parasite damage, kidney damage etc...
But bladder infection is an option to cause it, in small amounts.
I can not agree. Diabetes causes sugar in the urine, not blood in it.
Blood results from physical damage to the kidneys and/or bladder. Struvite crystals can cause that from a high pH but glucose is fully dissolved and cannot make physical damage to cells to the extent of making them bleed.
If it were my cat I would use the insulin initially IF and only IF the glucose is high enough to warrant it, such as over 200 on a high animal protein diet with suitable animal fat and very low carbs, fed often.
I'd be happy to make comments on the blood test results. They always tell a lot more than the vets say, iMO.
They can guide you in what to do.
Kibble is like any other food - it's value is dependent on what ingredients it has.
It has some major advantages:
* Cats need to eat as many times as possible every day (in the wild about 22 times).
* Cats need food to be available 24/7, to avoid pH swings, urinary problems and infectiosn and kidney damage leadign to kidney failure (the leading cause of medical death in domestic cats.)
* Cats require very fresh food, fresher than humans need, and kibble is a way to achieve that, 24/7.
* Kibble of high protein kind, does not have goo to stick to teeth and make gum trouble followed by stomatitis followed by cancer.
So, GOOD kibble fulfils all these feline requirements for basic health, and canned food or raw food, does not.
I would keep him indoors plus a catrun outdoors.
Some cat runs I have built for mine as examples (can be done for a hundred bucks or less usually, with a little ingenuity and petticoat mechanics)
This will prevent Feline leukaemia, toxoplasmosis, and a host of other dangers outside.
http://www.angelfire.com/fl/furryboots/catrun.html
The biggest problem with the Internet is that people do not learn how to judge who says what there.
It helps to check the credentals and applicability of them to what is written, for person signing the website, ad standing behind it liability-wise (and to not read an unsigned one).
Vets are NOT trained in feline nutrition or feline metabolism. So that disqualifies them from having opinions.
It takes someone actually involved in feline nutrition research, or who has studied it, or else the only website worth a look is one reporting feline nutrition formal research papers in original wording of said paper. And even then one needs to know how to assess research validitiy -and again - we have not generally been taught how.
I have. I consider it one of the most valuable things I ever learned at university. I wish everyone learned it. We all need it.
I started Catwell email group specifically to provide verified good research information instead of vet or internet hype on cats and what that tells us. I have no benefit from this, no bias as vets and manufacturers and sales types do - just the enjoyment of the good feedback. It is just that I have studied how cats work internally all my life, and have followed the meagre research. Most of the new research is published in copyright books produced from the papers presented at the Feline and Canine Nutrition Symposiums, starting 1998 (before that is too out of date). They publish a few copies and bury it under copyright so as to hide the truth and continue manuufacturing garbage under the guise of "veterinary diet" or scietific food or holistic food or Pitcairn recipes or whatever.
Some rules for cats:
Cats are not small humans. Human food is bad for cats.
Cats are not small lions. Lion food is bad for cats.
Cats are not dogs. Dogfood is bad for cats.
Cats are specially designed to be efficient solo predators. SOLO is relevant., It means they have to travel extra-light. Lightweight liver, lightweight blood supply, lightweight gut, you name it.
Cats can manage the easiest-to-digest food only, a very little at a time as they have a fast protein metabolism needing NEW protein every hour or two.
If they do not get it, they break down body protein between meals to supply it and keep going till they are fed. But each such episode results in kidney damage from the protein breakdown.
The lightweight equipment and small blood supply they have with small liver, small intestine, etc is designed only for animal protein and animal fat - the easiest nutrients to digest.
Feline gut bacteria are designed to supply what others get from plants, and they make their own Vit C.
Their meat needs to be freshkill to have enough taurine - it disappears in storage.
It also needs to be devoid of bacterial surface products which take 20 ins to grow after slaughter.
So rule one for indoor cats is to feed high animal protien and animal fat to be available 24/7 to eat at will.
Eassiest way to do it is high quality kibble.
It is fine to add meat meals here and there, but kibble is needed to provide 24/7 food to keep kidneys healthy.
I recommend Redmoonpetfood's Turkey and Salmon for your kitty.
It has minimal rice, as starch is needed to glue kibble together, and rice is best utilized by cats (of the grains) and is neutral as regards pH. (Potato, peas, etc are toxic AND damaging to kidneys and high pH).
He WILL need fresh daily water to hydrate kibble.
Sometimes. Depends on constitutional type. A Sulphur ICT will always need more water:-)
Canned food is goo with gums in it that prevent absorption of nutrients, and that put gooey junk on the teeteh for bacteria to enjoy.
There is only one bacterium that can turn urine alkaline. It is very rarely involved in a bladder infection in cats and that is usually in older female cats. It has urease activity which takes urea and turns it into ammonia, irritating bladder walls and making urine alkaline. Testing for it is tricky adn yor cat's pH is not as high as I would expect if that was happening here.
Maybe he is thinking whether he can digest that particular food.??
NOT tested in cats.
Nori has been used a lot with no adverse effect so far.
There is no scientific study yet in cats for it.
But be sure NOT to feed other greens like spirulina; they are VERY toxic.
Namaste,
Irene
REPLY TO: only
--
Irene de Villiers, B.Sc AASCA MCSSA D.I.Hom/D.Vet.Hom.
P.O. Box 4703 Spokane WA 99220.
www.angelfire.com/fl/furryboots/clickhere.html (Veterinary Homeopath.)
"Man who say it cannot be done should not interrupt one doing it."
